Another Yurt update

I have been doing some work on my yurt planning, but most of it has been learning to use a 3D CAD program.
The images that I have included where done using Google SketchUp, which is a good program that I am still learning how to do things, but I have been able to do some reasonable modeling.

...It looks like the images are in a reverse order. The first two images are for a possible semi-permanent foundation; composed of half sheets of plywood, 2 by 4's, and cinderblocks. I am certain that it is over-kill. I will ask architect friend for suggestions.

I am reasonably fond of how the uni and the tono came out in the scale mock-up. The tono crown is based on the golden mean of the diameter. The mid height support is just put on without any special idea.

One issue with the model is the khar mod[1]. They should flex as they rotate around the circle. Flexing of the segments is a little advanced for my poor Sketchup skills. It can probably be done with some kind of move function on the top of the khar mod.

I have also been working on other hands-on (i.e. non-computer based) related projects.
I got some 3/4 inch square pine boards and tried to make the uni attachments. What I discovered is that my plan to insert the steel pins into the tono and uni was a bit optimistic. I will probably want the pins to be about 3.5 inches long. And I am sure that it will be a bitch to use a hand drill to drill perfect longitudinal centered holes in an 8 foot hunk of wood.

I tried making the knots to form a loop to hold the uni to the khana using 4 mm nylon cord. It came out okay, but each of the knots has to be melted and smushed so that they won't pull through. I also tried to connect two khar mod together -- 3/4 is going to be thicker than I'll use[3], but putting the cord through two boards, knotting, and melting/smushing is a lot of work, especially when you consider that you need to do it nearly a thousand times.

I got a copy of Sewing for Idiots to learn how to use the sewing machine and see if I can use it to make the seams in 12# canvas. My local fabric store has 10# -- I'll start with that, if just for learning and testing the waterproofing recipe (remember - turpentine and soy oil).


[1] The laths that make up the khana[2]
[2] The rectangular lattice wall sections
[3] I am planning now to make them 1/2 inch thick.